Thursday, June 2, 2011

How do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?

hi guys i have a ford galaxy but cannot find where to change my transmission fluid and does any one know where i will find it in the engine as many machanics are trying to rip me off and saying i need a new gear box thanks allHow do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
There is no drain plug. You have to drop the pan,clean, replace gasket and refill with fluid.How do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
buy a manual for itHow do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
you must drop the pan to drain on a auto plug on bottom on standardHow do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
Well there is no drain plug on the tranny you have to pull the pan to let out the fluid. then change the transmission filter (also inside the pan and ussually a flat screen looking peice) be sure to clean the pan and tranny surface very well before reinstalling the pan. It is ussually a bad idea to change the fluid and filter on the older models because of the wear on the clutch bands in the tranny be careful you might have to replace the tranny if you do this. You mentioned gear box it sounds to me like they are refering to the rear end witch has a plug on the back axle in the center. Oh ya unless you are refering to a STANDARD TRANSMISSION in that case the best way to do it is to pull the gear shifter out and add the fluid from there. But check and be sure you put in the right fluid some standard transmissions use gear oil and others use regular automatic transmission fluid. PS if you put a little too much fluid in the standard tranny it will be okay it has a vent that will let the excess drain out. If you need more help get a Chilton's book it will show you everything you can get it at Autozone Napa Highlow anywhere... Good luck.How do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
IMO You should take it to a transmission shop and have the transmission cooler and torque converter drained and flushed at the same time. - if you just drop the pan and replace the filter and fluid there's still gonna be about 4 - 5 quarts of dirty fluid left in the torque converter and transmission cooler.



If it's a manual transmission;

Some of the old Fords had a magnetic drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug on the side... The ones that didn't have a drain plug were drained by jacking the front of the car and removing the lower extension housing bolt on back of the gearbox.How do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
Hi there locate the gearbox, there is a flat pan there with a load of bolts round it. get a large container and remove all the bolts and allow the fluid to drain !!! WARNING USED TRANSMISSION FLUID IS BOTH CARCENAGENIC AND TOXIC remove the pan and really you should change the fitlers as well, once all the fluid is drained remove the old seal and fit a new one and refit pan and torque bolts to the correct settings. when you fill the box use the correct fluid and follow the manufacturers process for checking the level as many different methods are usedHow do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
I don't know much about the Galaxy but Ford doesn't normally fit a gearbox drain plug. I think the gearbox would have to be removed in order to drain the lubricant. This should be done by a really experienced fitter, preferably a Ford trained one. I would recommend you check my recommendation with Ford trained Fitter. He could certainly do the job for you but it would take quite a time which you would have to pay for...and the oil will be fairly expensive. Also you need to know why the mechanics you have asked are all saying %26quot;New gear box%26quot; It's unlikely they are ALL rip off merchants. Be aware that if a gearbox siezes at speed you will have a real problem on your hands in trying to control the car....depressing the clutch pedal is not a lot of help in such a situation!How do i change my transmission fluid in my ford galaxy?
Transmission service is certainly not as easy or straightforward as oil changes, but considering the frustration and inefficiency of a transmission that isn't operating properly and the jaw-dropping cost of a rebuilt unit, we'll happily walk you through how it's done.



Buy the appropriate fluid for the transmission. This is extremely important - do not attempt to fill the transmission with anything but what the manufacturer recommends. Buy more than you need just in case. We'll also need a filter and a new pan gasket. Tools vary from job to job, but a set of sockets, a variety of extension bars, and a universal joint (or %26quot;wobble drive%26quot;) will usually do the trick. You also may need a gasket scraper to clean the sealing surface of the pan and transmission case, and some solvent. Last but certainly not least, a large catch pan is required.



The type of fluid and filter change that we're about to show will replace only a portion of the system's fluid, and therefore is best suited to vehicles that are not long overdue for this type of maintenance. Before tackling this project, pull the transmission dipstick and perform a visual and olfactory check of the fluid's condition. A burnt smell or color indicates fluid that's far past overdue (or more severe problems), and it's recommended that the vehicle be brought to a service station for a flush of the transmission and cooler. If you do elect for a professional flush-and-fill, make sure that the filter is also replaced during the process. We prefer to perform this service on a regular basis (roughly every 25,000 miles), and therefore we don't worry about extracting every last bit of used fluid.



If your transmission pan has a drain plug, consider yourself lucky while you remove it to start draining the fluid. In this case, we're not that fortunate, so we start by breaking loose each of the pan bolts with the appropriately-sized socket. Don't remove any of the bolts at this time.



Often, it will be difficult to access one or more of the bolts, so a bit of creativity may be required. Don't rush things, because tough bolts only get that much worse if the corners get rounded off. In this particular case, a 3/8%26quot;-drive socket was too large to fit over the bolt head (the transmission mount was extremely close), so a slightly slimmer 1/4%26quot;-drive socket was used. .



Some transmissions will utilize the pan bolts to secure various brackets, especially for the shift cable. If that is the case, remove only those bolts, and move the offending components out of the way.



Once all of the bolts have been loosened, remove them, leaving one in place at each corner of the pan. Once this is done, pick a corner to drop first (the front right corner looked to be the best bet in our situation). Remove that bolt, and loosen the others as required to start draining the fluid. As you can see, the fluid will start leaking from almost around the entire pan, so a drain pan at least the size of Montana the transmission will need to be in place to catch all of it. Keep kitty litter handy to soak up any spills.



Once the flow of fluid stops, remove the remaining bolts and carefully lower the transmission pan. A substantial amount of fluid will still remain, so keep the pan as level as possible.



In my case, the filter is removed simply by pulling it down with twisting motion, being careful not to snag any of the wiring harness. Yours made be held on with a bolt. We'd also recommend not dropping it into the drain pan and splashing ATF.



Let the transmission drain for a while. The fluid that we recovered gets measured so that we know how much to add during the refilling process. We recovered five quarts, and added an estimated half-quart to this amount to compensate for what was spilled during the process.



Next, we clean out the pan. It's entirely normal to find a fair amount of sludge and other wear debris, but significant amounts of ferrous material may indicate problems. At this time, you may choose to install a drain plug kit, or fit an aftermarket pan that includes one (some aftermarket pans also increase fluid capacity).



Clean the sealing surface of the pan using some solvent (we used brake cleaner) and a Scotchbrite abrasive pad. If a cork gasket was previously used, it may be necessary to break out a gasket scraper, but be careful not to gouge the surface.



Place the new gasket in place. Also clean the transmission case, using extreme care not to damage the sealing surface or introduce dirt into the transmission internals.



Take note of the filter's seal. It's obviously ideal to remove the old seal from the transmission if it didn't come out when removing the filter, but don't attempt this unless you're sure that you can remove it without damaging the transmission. While they usually pop out with ease, we've run into a couple of them that have been stuck in place and have added significant time to the project. If in doubt, leave the old seal in place, because once it's been damaged by a ham-fisted removal attempt, there is not other choice but to change it out. Tap the new seal into place using a soft-faced mallet.



Gently press the new filter into place. Make sure that it is fully seated.



Gently lift the pan into place while attempting to keep the gasket lined up properly. This may take a few attempts. Install the pan bolts and snug them up, but don't tighten them yet.

Next, torque the bolts to the correct value (22 ft-lbs in this case). If no tightening pattern is provided in your service documentation, simply go around the perimeter of the pan.



Before crawling out from under the vehicle, it's not a bad idea to clean off the exhaust if you've dripped fluid onto it during this process, or else you may get an unpleasant surprise shortly after starting it for the first time.



The correct amount of fluid is used to fill the transmission through the dipstick tube. We then start the engine, shift through each of the gears, and check the fluid level according to the manufacturer's recommendations (according to the dipstick, it should be done in Park and with the engine running and car level). In this case, there are two ranges marked on the dipstick - one each for %26quot;hot%26quot; and %26quot;cold%26quot; - and so we don't need to warm up the transmission completely to perform a preliminary check. Once we verified that it was in the ballpark, we went for a drive to warm the trans to its normal operating temperature before we made a final observation of the level and checked underneath the vehicle for any leaks.



Since we're filling the trans through the dipstick tube, any pooling can hinder our efforts in obtaining an accurate fluid level measurement. Therefore, it's important to be patient while verifying that the transmission is indeed properly topped-off, as underfilling or overfilling may result in severe damage. Checking transmission fluid levels can be a significant challenge, which is why many manufacturers have removed the dipstick entirely in favor of measuring the fluid level electronically.



The old transmission fluild should be recycled, of course. Our local recycling center simply mixes it with waste oil, but you'll want to check with your location to see what should be done with it as to avoid contaminating a large amount of recycled material. At this time, we're unaware of any efforts to recycle automatic transmission filters, so we let the part drain for at least 24 hours and then dispose of it.



Enjoy and good luck!